Iresha and Sri Lanka  
sri lanka
 

(for those of you who don't know, i have been supporting a little girl in sri lanka as well for some years through plan international / childreach and this piece is about a visit to iresha and her family arranged by plan)

It is a delightful 8 hour train ride from Kandy to Badulla. The first part of the journey we slowly crawl up to the highest elevation of about 6200' (approx 1800m). I am in 'first class observation coach' so there is really good viewing but nevertheless I spend a lot of time out of my seat and hanging out the door as we climb through lovely hillsides full of tropical vegetation and tea plantations. Many places there are tea pickers plucking the tender leaves which we will likely later sip at our leisure. the women look up and wave as the train goes by - slowly i again add. I marvel at the many different shades of green and the effect of the sun gracing patches of leaves with its light.

The train screeches to a stop at many stations along the way and I often hop off and look around a bit, stretch and jump back on as the train blows its whistle and begins to pull out. Fun! I also pick up some food along the way around noon time - fruit, chapatis or egg buns. The egg buns are a roll with sliced hard boiled eggs and sliced tomatoes. There are also some chili peppers in it, but i quickly fish them out. My stomach and bowels definitely says no. Besides, it kills all the great spices and subtle flavors.

The observation car has about 24 seats and is the only coach, of about 9, that is first class. You really have to push it to imagine this is first class but it is all a matter of context. The seats are softer and there is one person per seat. When those seats are filled no one else is permitted in the coach. In the second and third class you buy a ticket and you find a physical space in the car no matter how many other folks are there. This might mean standing the entire time. So you see what I mean. Besides, this 8 hour journey breaks me up for all of $5.00 so I'm not complaining!

I meet several enjoyable people during this time, and I won't tell you about the rest! Some of the white folks are on an organized tour. I meet two lovely French people about my age who are both short in stature and rather hippie in appearance. My French is much worse than their English but we make out just fine. They are very warm, kind and appropriately expressive of their love for each other. It is pleasant to notice their discreet interaction. Another person is Christy in her late 50's who had the unfortunate experience of having her passport and all her money stolen along with her credit/check cards! I never do full understand why folks don't keep their passport and money/cards on them at all times while keeping copies elsewhere. But, oh well........ it was quite an ordeal for her to get everything back in order, and she is still waiting for her bank card to be couriered to her after a failed attempt to send it by registered mail! She had a good attitude about it all and found it possible to have a good laugh with the hope that the experience would not be repeated!! I spoke briefly with an older gentleman who is with the tour group and is very cheerfully clear that traveling with a tour group is the best fit for him. His only complaint is that he just can not find any good English stew. I must admit that after a while rice and curry does make one yearn for something more familiar.

At 5:45pm I arrive at Badulla, the end of the train line, and find a place to lay my head at the Eagle Nest Holiday Inn. Well folks, it ain't no Holiday Inn regardless of what the name says, but it is acceptable. Double bed, attached bath and a mosquito net. However absolutely no character or ambiance. It is located along the main bazaar road and will do for two nights.

I call Badulla Plan International and speak with Dhalley about tomorrow. We will meet at his office at 8:30am and go to meet Iresha and family as well as visit other projects Plan is involved in. It's a 3 1/2 hour ride. As I write this, the floor and the room are undulating! I think i'm still on the train!! Sleep.

It's morning and I arrive at the Plan International office a little after 8. Everyone seems to be hard at work. There probably are about a dozen office spaces including a reception area and a conference/office room. I am first introduced to Wijerathne who goes by Wije, or in my lingo VJ. He is an affable man, program manager and has several undergrad degrees in such things as economics and philosophy and a masters in Community Development. He explains the various programs they have in C.D. such as health care, education, and agriculture. Impressive. Then Dhalley, the Program Director for the area is introduced. He takes me around the office and introduces the rest of the staff which includes Wijedosa, one of the sponsorship clerks and who happens to be the one responsible for Iresha.

After some tea, Wijedosa and I get in the Landcuriser with the driver and head down the mountains for the drive to Iresha's. Again the drive is beautiful through the higher tea plantations on down closer to sea level. There are many terraced hill sides of rice paddies adding to the stunning beauty of this land. The roads can be a challenge, lots of sharp S turns, no guard rails and literally shear drops of a couple thousand feet to the valley below - and bus drivers who drive like maniacs! The farther we go the more challenging the roads become with more potholes, narrow and bumpy. Iresha lives in a very poor part of Sri Lanka so the closer we get the worse the roads and infrastructure become. We finally turn off the tarmac on to a dirt road which is in a very high state of neglect and necessitates traveling at a very slow speed dodging rocks and potholes, or I should say dodging the largest, meanest looking potholes and settling for the smaller ones where you only lose one wheel rather than the whole front end! But the beauty never ceases.

Along the way we stop at several projects of Plan. One is a rural health clinic built by Plan. I speak briefly with the physician, a very kind man who expresses interest in my sending him any articles (by mail, no email here) on psychology, the physical and psychological care of women and children, trauma, etc. He states he wants to keep reading and learning, to keep up with current research. I look around the clinic and it is packed wall to wall with women and children, a major focus of Plan. As we travel on toward Iresha's, other projects are pointed out. We stop at Iresha's school, also built by Plan. All the children are given school supplies, book bags, umbrellas (plenty of rain) and hats. I was pleased to meet Iresha's teacher who verified what I had been told by the Plan field worker, that Iresha was the number 1 student in her 2nd grade class. A bright little girl!


Just past Iresha's school we meet the primary community development coordinator at the junction of 2 dirt roads. I would say we are in the boon docks! This is Nowheresville! The coordinator gets in and we backtrack about 1k and stop along side the dirt road because we have come to the path which leads to Iresha's home. But just as we get out and are about to begin walking, Iresha's father comes bouncing along at a good clip on his bicycle, all smiles, a handsome, pleasant man. He seems thrilled to see us and says if we follow him he will show us a road that can get us closer to his home. So he takes off on his bike and we follow. Soon we come to the 'road' he spoke of, turned and headed on even more slowly. Fortunately we have a 4 wheel drive. This is barely a bicylcle path - and a rutted, washed out track at that. We pick our way along and get to a point where we can't go anymore, get out and walk.

We walk past a rice paddie, some corn, and a couple cows. It is a thrill to come around a bend and into a partial clearing where Iresha's home is. I see much of the extended family all there looking our direction and waiting. They of course know we are coming and Iresha has stayed out of school this day for our meeting. I glance around to see if I can see Iresha, noticing my heart rate has picked up a bit, and see her come walking toward me with a smile on her face. I can not describe the feeling of joy I experienced at this moment, and don't quite know what to do or say. Iresha doesn't speak but a couple words of English and this illiterate American speaks O of her language. But Iresha knows what to do, knows the customs. She walks up to me with about a dozen betel leaves and hands them to me. This is the traditional welcome. Then she get down on her knees, folds her hands together and bows to the ground at my feet. Needless to say, this feels very awkward to me, but again this is the custom. I still don't quite know what to say or do but i gather, with VJ's motions that i am to return the betel leaves to Iresha, which i do

I realize I can't stop looking at this beautiful little girl and want to just sit quietly with her, but this is not to be. I meet her mother then too whom I recognize from previous pictures. She as well is a very attractive young woman with a smile like her daughter's. But Iresha! I feel an immediate connection with her and her lovely energy. I want to pick her up and hug her for a long time, but I do control myself!! She reminds me too of Brooke, my granddaughter, and they are the same age. Two months apart. Like Brooke she is slender, sensitive, a little shy at first, very pretty and will interact with you.

The entire extended family is standing around watching everything and entering in some, talking among themselves, gesturing. All seem quite joyful at what is taking place. With Wijedosa's OK, I decide to give Iresha the gifts I have brought along. First I give her Brooke's school picture and explain that they are the same age and that before I left the States I told Brooke where I was going and would be visiting Iresha. Would she like to send a gift along of something of hers for Iresha. She said she would and found a stuffed animal to send along. I give this stuffed animal to Iresha. Iresha is also quite a good artist judging from some of the drawings she sent to me so I brought along some water based paints and brushes as well as a stack of water color paper. This is followed with pencils, a pen and and a handfull of baloons, a few of which I give to her 3 year old brother. I notice Iresha immediately gives some of her baloons to the other children. Well, I also brought along a box of chocolate covered cookines and finally a blues (blues here??) harmonica in its case. She doesn't hesitate to blow on it with a little encouragement. And smiles, which she does a lot of. I then give a piece of wool material to Mother which can be used for many things.

Iresha indicates a thank you for the gifts. With the language barrier, it is a little uncertain what to do next, but it all comes together. I ask Iresha if she would walk with me and show me around. We walk hand in hand and look at different things - papaya and banana trees, passion fruit, and I chatter away, nothing of which she can understand directly but perhaps pointing here and there she gets some of the gist. We take some pics along the way. Iresha gets in her improvised swing. We look at the corn which they grow and use for grinding into flower with a mortar and pestle to make bread. All the while the extended family follows us at a respectful distance. They seem to know this is primarily time for Iresha and me to get acquainted.

So these moments are precious and very special to me. I feel like I have another granddaughter whom I love dearly. My heart is warm and full and remains so. Iresha walks me through her house which consists of a kitchen/storage area, a bedroom and a living/dining room. The house is a simple rectangular shaped mud brick house with a thatched roof. It all appears neat and as clean as one might hope for with no cement floor. It is homey, pleasant and welcoming. Plan has also built the family a toilet as they have for many families. I would feel quite comfortable living in Iresha's home. It is very simple but enough.

We all sit down in the living area. Little Iresha sits on a chair beside me and shows me her school work in the different subjects. Along with her usual subjects she is also beginning to learn a little English. The table beside us is full with fruits and some sweets made by Mother. She also makes us a delicious passon fruit drink. Yum! We eat some of the fruit and sweets as we 'talk.' The maternal grandparents are here too and I take some photos of them with Iresha. They are very fond of Iresha. I've learned to that it often makes an even better, more solid connection when I pull out photos of my family so I pass those around and give a picture of Sydney, my youngest granddaughter, to the little son who is her age. The parents point out a framed photo hanging on the wall of Rose , Chelsea, and me that we had sent to them for Christmas. All the ladies keep looking at the pics and chattering animatedly with each other.

I kow the time is coming for me to leave Iresha and these dear people. I can feel the emotion rising up as I am aware that I really don't want to leave, so the leaving is emotional for me. It takes all the strength I have not to just sit down on the spot and weep both for joy and not wanting to leave Iresha and her family. Iresha brings a big plastic bag full lof different kinds of fruit, sweets and traditional food for me as a parting gift. Then she bows on the ground again as is the custom. I can't resist giving here a big hug so i do and VJ takes a couple pics of us hugging - or me hugging Iresha! I don't think she quite knows what to do with this show of affection. Tears well up. The mother, father and I say goodby as do all the rest of the family.

As we walk away from the family, there are lots of waves and goodbyes. The father walks with us to the Landcruiser. We talk some about his crops. He has two cows as well. At the vehicle he and I say goodby again and I can't resist spontaneously giving him a hug too..


Again, I am deeply moved by this loving, happy, giving Buddhist family who live very simply and yet seem to be lacking nothing. Whewwww......what a day. My heart remains full and I have been given such an immeasureable gift.

I think of a statement made by Sai Baba, an Indian man who has given so much in charity to people by way of schools, health care, a state of the art hospital, etc.

"Charity is cruelty unless one heart meets another in warm fraternity."

I hope that our hearts have met at least in a small way in 'warm fraternity,' not only with Iresha and her family but with the kind, generous and hard working dedicated folks that I have been fortunate to meet at Plan International both in Kandy and Badulla.

Copyright © 2005 Wayne Yoder. All rights reserved.