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(for those of you who don't know, i have been supporting
a little girl in sri lanka as well for some years through plan international
/ childreach and this piece is about a visit to iresha and her family
arranged by plan)
It is a delightful 8 hour train ride from Kandy
to Badulla. The first part of the journey we slowly crawl up to the
highest elevation of about 6200' (approx 1800m). I am in 'first class
observation coach' so there is really good viewing but nevertheless
I spend a lot of time out of my seat and hanging out the door as we
climb through lovely hillsides full of tropical vegetation and tea
plantations. Many places there are tea pickers plucking the tender
leaves which we will likely later sip at our leisure. the women look
up and wave as the train goes by - slowly i again add. I marvel at
the many different shades of green and the effect of the sun gracing
patches of leaves with its light.
The train screeches to a stop at many stations along the way and I
often hop off and look around a bit, stretch and jump back on as the
train blows its whistle and begins to pull out. Fun! I also pick up
some food along the way around noon time - fruit, chapatis or egg
buns. The egg buns are a roll with sliced hard boiled eggs and sliced
tomatoes. There are also some chili peppers in it, but i quickly fish
them out. My stomach and bowels definitely says no. Besides, it kills
all the great spices and subtle flavors.
The observation car has about 24 seats and is the only coach, of about
9, that is first class. You really have to push it to imagine this
is first class but it is all a matter of context. The seats are softer
and there is one person per seat. When those seats are filled no one
else is permitted in the coach. In the second and third class you
buy a ticket and you find a physical space in the car no matter how
many other folks are there. This might mean standing the entire time.
So you see what I mean. Besides, this 8 hour journey breaks me up
for all of $5.00 so I'm not complaining!
I meet several enjoyable people during this time, and I won't tell
you about the rest! Some of the white folks are on an organized tour.
I meet two lovely French people about my age who are both short in
stature and rather hippie in appearance. My French is much worse than
their English but we make out just fine. They are very warm, kind
and appropriately expressive of their love for each other. It is pleasant
to notice their discreet interaction. Another person is Christy in
her late 50's who had the unfortunate experience of having her passport
and all her money stolen along with her credit/check cards! I never
do full understand why folks don't keep their passport and money/cards
on them at all times while keeping copies elsewhere. But, oh well........
it was quite an ordeal for her to get everything back in order, and
she is still waiting for her bank card to be couriered to her after
a failed attempt to send it by registered mail! She had a good attitude
about it all and found it possible to have a good laugh with the hope
that the experience would not be repeated!! I spoke briefly with an
older gentleman who is with the tour group and is very cheerfully
clear that traveling with a tour group is the best fit for him. His
only complaint is that he just can not find any good English stew.
I must admit that after a while rice and curry does make one yearn
for something more familiar.
At 5:45pm I arrive at Badulla, the end of the train line, and find
a place to lay my head at the Eagle Nest Holiday Inn. Well folks,
it ain't no Holiday Inn regardless of what the name says, but it is
acceptable. Double bed, attached bath and a mosquito net. However
absolutely no character or ambiance. It is located along the main
bazaar road and will do for two nights.
I call Badulla Plan International and speak with Dhalley about tomorrow.
We will meet at his office at 8:30am and go to meet Iresha and family
as well as visit other projects Plan is involved in. It's a 3 1/2
hour ride. As I write this, the floor and the room are undulating!
I think i'm still on the train!! Sleep.
It's morning and I arrive at the Plan International office a little
after 8. Everyone seems to be hard at work. There probably are about
a dozen office spaces including a reception area and a conference/office
room. I am first introduced to Wijerathne who goes by Wije, or in
my lingo VJ. He is an affable man, program manager and has several
undergrad degrees in such things as economics and philosophy and a
masters in Community Development. He explains the various programs
they have in C.D. such as health care, education, and agriculture.
Impressive. Then Dhalley, the Program Director for the area is introduced.
He takes me around the office and introduces the rest of the staff
which includes Wijedosa, one of the sponsorship clerks and who happens
to be the one responsible for Iresha.
After some tea, Wijedosa and I get in the Landcuriser with the driver
and head down the mountains for the drive to Iresha's. Again the drive
is beautiful through the higher tea plantations on down closer to
sea level. There are many terraced hill sides of rice paddies adding
to the stunning beauty of this land. The roads can be a challenge,
lots of sharp S turns, no guard rails and literally shear drops of
a couple thousand feet to the valley below - and bus drivers who drive
like maniacs! The farther we go the more challenging the roads become
with more potholes, narrow and bumpy. Iresha lives in a very poor
part of Sri Lanka so the closer we get the worse the roads and infrastructure
become. We finally turn off the tarmac on to a dirt road which is
in a very high state of neglect and necessitates traveling at a very
slow speed dodging rocks and potholes, or I should say dodging the
largest, meanest looking potholes and settling for the smaller ones
where you only lose one wheel rather than the whole front end! But
the beauty never ceases.
Along the way we stop at several projects of Plan. One is a rural
health clinic built by Plan. I speak briefly with the physician, a
very kind man who expresses interest in my sending him any articles
(by mail, no email here) on psychology, the physical and psychological
care of women and children, trauma, etc. He states he wants to keep
reading and learning, to keep up with current research. I look around
the clinic and it is packed wall to wall with women and children,
a major focus of Plan. As we travel on toward Iresha's, other projects
are pointed out. We stop at Iresha's school, also built by Plan. All
the children are given school supplies, book bags, umbrellas (plenty
of rain) and hats. I was pleased to meet Iresha's teacher who verified
what I had been told by the Plan field worker, that Iresha was the
number 1 student in her 2nd grade class. A bright little girl! |
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Just past Iresha's school we meet the primary community development
coordinator at the junction of 2 dirt roads. I would say we are
in the boon docks! This is Nowheresville! The coordinator gets
in and we backtrack about 1k and stop along side the dirt road
because we have come to the path which leads to Iresha's home.
But just as we get out and are about to begin walking, Iresha's
father comes bouncing along at a good clip on his bicycle, all
smiles, a handsome, pleasant man. He seems thrilled to see us
and says if we follow him he will show us a road that can get
us closer to his home. So he takes off on his bike and we follow.
Soon we come to the 'road' he spoke of, turned and headed on even
more slowly. Fortunately we have a 4 wheel drive. This is barely
a bicylcle path - and a rutted, washed out track at that. We pick
our way along and get to a point where we can't go anymore, get
out and walk.
We walk past a rice paddie, some corn, and a couple cows. It is
a thrill to come around a bend and into a partial clearing where
Iresha's home is. I see much of the extended family all there
looking our direction and waiting. They of course know we are
coming and Iresha has stayed out of school this day for our meeting.
I glance around to see if I can see Iresha, noticing my heart
rate has picked up a bit, and see her come walking toward me with
a smile on her face. I can not describe the feeling of joy I experienced
at this moment, and don't quite know what to do or say. Iresha
doesn't speak but a couple words of English and this illiterate
American speaks O of her language. But Iresha knows what to do,
knows the customs. She walks up to me with about a dozen betel
leaves and hands them to me. This is the traditional welcome.
Then she get down on her knees, folds her hands together and bows
to the ground at my feet. Needless to say, this feels very awkward
to me, but again this is the custom. I still don't quite know
what to say or do but i gather, with VJ's motions that i am to
return the betel leaves to Iresha, which i do
I realize I can't stop looking at this beautiful little girl and
want to just sit quietly with her, but this is not to be. I meet
her mother then too whom I recognize from previous pictures. She
as well is a very attractive young woman with a smile like her
daughter's. But Iresha! I feel an immediate connection with her
and her lovely energy. I want to pick her up and hug her for a
long time, but I do control myself!! She reminds me too of Brooke,
my granddaughter, and they are the same age. Two months apart.
Like Brooke she is slender, sensitive, a little shy at first,
very pretty and will interact with you.
The entire extended family is standing around watching everything
and entering in some, talking among themselves, gesturing. All
seem quite joyful at what is taking place. With Wijedosa's OK,
I decide to give Iresha the gifts I have brought along. First
I give her Brooke's school picture and explain that they are the
same age and that before I left the States I told Brooke where
I was going and would be visiting Iresha. Would she like to send
a gift along of something of hers for Iresha. She said she would
and found a stuffed animal to send along. I give this stuffed
animal to Iresha. Iresha is also quite a good artist judging from
some of the drawings she sent to me so I brought along some water
based paints and brushes as well as a stack of water color paper.
This is followed with pencils, a pen and and a handfull of baloons,
a few of which I give to her 3 year old brother. I notice Iresha
immediately gives some of her baloons to the other children. Well,
I also brought along a box of chocolate covered cookines and finally
a blues (blues here??) harmonica in its case. She doesn't hesitate
to blow on it with a little encouragement. And smiles, which she
does a lot of. I then give a piece of wool material to Mother
which can be used for many things.
Iresha indicates a thank you for the gifts. With the language
barrier, it is a little uncertain what to do next, but it all
comes together. I ask Iresha if she would walk with me and show
me around. We walk hand in hand and look at different things -
papaya and banana trees, passion fruit, and I chatter away, nothing
of which she can understand directly but perhaps pointing here
and there she gets some of the gist. We take some pics along the
way. Iresha gets in her improvised swing. We look at the corn
which they grow and use for grinding into flower with a mortar
and pestle to make bread. All the while the extended family follows
us at a respectful distance. They seem to know this is primarily
time for Iresha and me to get acquainted.
So these moments are precious and very special to me. I feel like
I have another granddaughter whom I love dearly. My heart is warm
and full and remains so. Iresha walks me through her house which
consists of a kitchen/storage area, a bedroom and a living/dining
room. The house is a simple rectangular shaped mud brick house
with a thatched roof. It all appears neat and as clean as one
might hope for with no cement floor. It is homey, pleasant and
welcoming. Plan has also built the family a toilet as they have
for many families. I would feel quite comfortable living in Iresha's
home. It is very simple but enough.
We all sit down in the living area. Little Iresha sits on a chair
beside me and shows me her school work in the different subjects.
Along with her usual subjects she is also beginning to learn a
little English. The table beside us is full with fruits and some
sweets made by Mother. She also makes us a delicious passon fruit
drink. Yum! We eat some of the fruit and sweets as we 'talk.'
The maternal grandparents are here too and I take some photos
of them with Iresha. They are very fond of Iresha. I've learned
to that it often makes an even better, more solid connection when
I pull out photos of my family so I pass those around and give
a picture of Sydney, my youngest granddaughter, to the little
son who is her age. The parents point out a framed photo hanging
on the wall of Rose , Chelsea, and me that we had sent to them
for Christmas. All the ladies keep looking at the pics and chattering
animatedly with each other.
I kow the time is coming for me to leave Iresha and these dear
people. I can feel the emotion rising up as I am aware that I
really don't want to leave, so the leaving is emotional for me.
It takes all the strength I have not to just sit down on the spot
and weep both for joy and not wanting to leave Iresha and her
family. Iresha brings a big plastic bag full lof different kinds
of fruit, sweets and traditional food for me as a parting gift.
Then she bows on the ground again as is the custom. I can't resist
giving here a big hug so i do and VJ takes a couple pics of us
hugging - or me hugging Iresha! I don't think she quite knows
what to do with this show of affection. Tears well up. The mother,
father and I say goodby as do all the rest of the family.
As we walk away from the family, there are lots of waves and goodbyes.
The father walks with us to the Landcruiser. We talk some about
his crops. He has two cows as well. At the vehicle he and I say
goodby again and I can't resist spontaneously giving him a hug
too..
Again, I am deeply moved by this loving, happy,
giving Buddhist family who live very simply and yet seem to be lacking
nothing. Whewwww......what a day. My heart remains full and I have
been given such an immeasureable gift.
I think of a statement made by Sai Baba, an Indian man who has given
so much in charity to people by way of schools, health care, a state
of the art hospital, etc.
"Charity is cruelty unless one heart meets another in warm
fraternity."
I hope that our hearts have met at least in a small way in 'warm
fraternity,' not only with Iresha and her family but with the kind,
generous and hard working dedicated folks that I have been fortunate
to meet at Plan International both in Kandy and Badulla.
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